DAY 12

I'm HOMMMEEEE!

DAY 11

Our final full day in Kenya began with an early meeting with a Kenyan Asian businesswoman. She has been part of a school building project using funds from the Aga Khan Foundation. We were a little wary before the meeting that she might be quite ‘scary’ and we were right. She had some very searching questions and appeared very negative (although possibly quite realistic) as she pointed out (with some enjoyment I think) the size of the task Etc has undertaken and the potential pitfalls ahead. I think Sonal and Gerry left feeling a little battered and not a small amount discouraged by the encounter. The reality of monitoring how money is spent on buildings, the quality of construction, the day to day management and welfare of staff and pupils, the distribution and collection of funds, the minefield of the government’s involvement and ongoing interest in the project all seem like huge mountains to climb right now.

Perhaps after everyone has recovered from the intensity of the workload of the trip there will be greater clarity. Gerry and Sonal are planning to come again in March to continue the work, but in the meantime there may be important things that need doing in order to ensure registration of land and school is completed.

When we were in a very odd restaurant at one of the many meetings last week there was an awful table decoration…a pink plastic flower attached to a little hut (it just needed a sprinkling of fake snow and a plastic santa to finish it off). But attached to it was a piece of fluorescent paper with these words – If the Lord is for us who can be against us? – Romans 8:31 - and this is true when things are going well and when they are not.

I reminded Sonal and Gerry to remember the progress that had been made last week in the Mara. Remember the children we met and all the members of the community who welcomed the idea of a secondary school for girls in this marginalised area. Remember Agnes and her passion and her vision. Remember how things all seemed to fall into place. It’s true it will be a mountainous task, turning those dreams into reality. It’s also true that the end product may be flawed and imperfect. But if our God is for us… and I believe he is… it’s worth trying right?

I lift my eyes to the mountains

- where does my help come from?

My help comes from the Lord,

the maker of heaven and earth.

He will not let your foot slip –

he who watches over you will not slumber;

indeed, he who watches over his people

will neither slumber nor sleep.

The Lord watches over you –

the Lord is your shade at your right hand;

the sun will not harm you by day,

nor the moon by night.

The Lord will keep you from all harm  -

he will watch over your life;

the Lord will watch over your coming and going

both now and forevermore.

Psalm 121

DAY 10

Today all our meetings were in the same place, a hotel within walking distance of our lodgings and it was good to stretch our legs a bit. It was also good to make use of the wifi at the hotel and upload some more blog posts. We were meeting a guy called George with experience of NGOs in Kenya particularly in education. He had some good advice.

Then Gerry and Sonal went to meet a director of the hotel chain (Sarova) who run the game camp near the Sekenani school and who have supported Etc and the school over recent years. He is the man with oversight of their CSR – Corporate Social Responsibility. We wanted to ensure we had their support into the future, for the secondary school as well as the ongoing work with the primary school. This was assured dependent on the business plan.

Finally we met Rachel, the deputy manager of the Sarova Mara game camp, who is taking her annual leave here in Nairobi. She was telling us that despite the best efforts of the Game Camp in supporting the school, arranging for guests to visit, who sometimes wish to sponsor individuals or groups of children, the Sekenani head teacher does not always take best advantage of the help he is offered. This is a real problem and the sort of attitude that can make potential helpers and sponsors look elsewhere in order to make a difference. She was encouraged to hear of the progress that has been made though and thinks a girls school there will be a great thing.

In the evening we visited an Indian restaurant in the parklands district of Nairobi which is largely Kenyan Asian. The food was delicious – I am learning so much and trying so many new things! I would recommend Orange, tangerine and carrot juice! Our hosts have been so generous and we have had lots of fun with them.

Saryu, me and Sonal

Well, not so homesick tonight but the days are running out here…and I fear we are all running out of steam too.

DAY 9

We had a busy day ahead today, with important meetings fixed in advance, by George, for us to meet a government minister of Education, some lawyers and a contact that Sapna (who couldn’t come on the trip) met at Lord’s in the summer.

So our taxi lady, Martha, took us to the government buildings but because we had no name for the person we needed to meet, we couldn’t get in. After a long wait it transpired that the guy we needed to see was not in the office and actually didn’t really want to see us at all! It was a disappointing start to the day but really one of the only setbacks so far. We decided to go shopping for textbooks instead; a huge range of them seem to be available to deliver the national curriculum, so we couldn’t choose there and then, but it was a useful process. There seems to be a fixation on rote learning and testing knowledge (memory) using multi choice at primary and secondary level, although the level of what needs to be learned is quite high, particularly in maths. One of the things Gerry is keen to see in the new project is introducing different styles of teaching and learning, which encourage creative thinking and improve the capacity of the young person to question and apply knowledge. The new school will also promote more vocational skills that will be useful in the job market, and these will be tailored to suit the community in the Mara.

This afternoon we met some lawyers who advised us on some of the processes needed to ensure the land is properly leased to the school, and that the school is correctly registered with the government. This was very helpful and the law partners were keen to support the project.

Later we met with this guy Sapna had met at Lord’s. He is a local businessman with some useful contacts that we can follow up.

We have just had a delicious meal of home cooked Indian food. I have felt very sleepy now for about 2 days. I find myself nodding off during conversations! I have generally felt a bit better today but I’m still longing for home. I think I feel I have come to the end of my usefulness in the project, and whilst I don’t think I am being a hindrance, and no-one is making me feel that way, I really am not contributing anything to the team. This is quite frustrating really. Also Nairobi is not my favourite place. We were worried tonight by reports that the students at the Uni (many of whom live next to our lodgings) were rioting, which can mean stoning cars etc. Our driver had to take us the long way home. This made for a long journey, and I’m sure she was in fact just deliberately driving a more roundabout route, only to end up in exactly the same place. Anyway, we are safe and sound so all’s well that ends well.

Gradually, my thoughts are turning to what I will do with the rest of my sabbatical. This is a subject that hasn’t had too much thought at all, in the busy end to October and the prep for this trip. Something to pray about I think, as I would not like to waste this gift of time that I have been given. I have had an idea for a project but more on this later ;-)

DAY 8

The rift valley in the background

Just happened to be passing

The chance meeting with a teacher trainer

Arriving at the Sarova stanley

I needed to have a break from blog writing last night as I was feeling so home sick that the keyboard may have got wet! But of course, weeping may remain for a night but…today is a new day with plenty to do and every day brings me a step closer to home.

It’s been building up for a few days. Sarova Game Camp had begun to feel a bit claustrophobic but when it came to leave you knew you had made good friends and it had become more like home over the days. For me, the countryside will always be a more comfortable place and I knew we were on our way to the big city, the part I was looking forward to least…no more chances to see elephants here I think!

Gerry skilfully negotiated the journey back to Nairobi, and though she makes this look easy, I know this sort of brinkmanship takes her beyond her comfort zone too. Sonal and I looked on gratefully as she had several conversations over the past few days with the guys at Sarova that arrange guests’ departures. It was a case of get up early to wait and see what happens. My pals will know that ‘unplanned’ is one of my no-nos! Fortunately there was a Spanish couple that were happy to have us rag-tag bunch of charity workers share their mini bus back to Nairobi at no charge. Even more key was that the taxi driver didn’t mind. And so we set off on the 5 and half hour drive (That really should probably take half that time on British roads) - known as the African massage! The couple, Anna and Cesar were on their honeymoon and had fantastic English, so we shared with them what we had been doing all week and they were interested and supportive.

After a fairly uneventful trip, including a ‘chance’ conversation with a teacher trainer Maasai woman (a potential good future contact), outside a souvenir shop, and despite Sonal haggling for a metre high wooden Maasai statue (goodness knows how we’ll get that home!) we were dropped exactly where we needed to be, at the Sarova Stanley Hotel, one of the oldest hotels in Nairobi. Tres posh, in an out of date colonial fashion!

We waited there to be picked up by our hosts, a Kenyan Asian couple who have offered to put us up for the remainder of our trip. How kind is that? They know of our work through their son Niraj who works in London and was involved in advising Etc when it first established. A few minutes drive from the Stanley we arrived at their home, in a gated court near the Uni residences. We have a room each, which is wonderful for some privacy and head-space, and Surya and her husband, Rajni, have made us most welcome. She was once a secondary school teacher herself so has some helpful input too.

It’s really amazing how everything – all the people we have come into contact with and the places we have been – have added to the whole picture. It’s almost as if there’s a plan!

In the evening we went out for dinner (Italian – very good) with George. George is a 28 year old Kenyan, who is responsible for Etc here. He is the link person who helps teachers when they first arrive, has sorted out some of our arrangements and arranged some of the meetings we will be doing later today. George is a lawyer, about to be accepted to the bar. We got chatting and he was telling me how he had been baptised at 15 at St Luke’s Chapel!! He had been to church earlier in the day, a rocking service by the sounds of things. George has political aspirations and may be even standing for election as an MP this time next year. He seems keen to work in Human rights as a lawyer (whilst earning his cash in conveyance).

We walked to and from the restaurant…I must admit it was not as threatening as I had imagined, as we are in the good side of town, although George didn’t fill me with confidence as we walked back across the park in the dark, which even he found creepy.

The end of another tiring day, I would have got on a plane home there and then given the chance. But perhaps it’s in the tougher parts of this trip that I’ll learn most about myself. Thanks for the texts…they help.

x

DAY 7

The day started off with a mini lie in and another lovely buffet breakfast (diet needed on return!) The good news is that I seem to be back to normal health wise today... although I seem to have developed acne! Oh dear oh dear!

We did some lounging about by the pool and visited the local Maasai women who had come up to the camp to sell their goods. I got fleeced of course because I'm a raving shopaholic. It was good to know that the money spent was going direct to the person who had made/sourced it locally. I met Petri too, the local blacksmith who was doing a good line in spears... for your every day lion taming needs. Petri also had a guitar made from a wooden box with metal strings (I guess that's all a guitar is really). We filmed him and later played it back to him on my mac, which he found very entertaining...I think he fancies himself as a movie star!

After more lounging and a bit more movie editing we had lunch and then found some shade to work some more. It was such beautiful weather here today, but because the camp is fenced in for safety you can end up feeling a little trapped. The tourists are loaded and able to safari most days of their visit, but we have started feeling a bit hemmed in. I'm not sure how Gerry lived here for three months although she would at least leave the confines of the camp each day to go down to the Sekenani school to teach. I know that the friends she made amongst the staff here (and they are a wonderful bunch of people) must have kept her sane too. Earlier in the day I had spoken to Tira, the cultural manager about the possibility of going on safari again. He was really positive. I mentioned to him about the possibility of bringing young people from the UK to work alongside kids from the school and he seemed to think this would be a good idea.

What a beast

It's been a bit of a funny day today. The hoped for safari didn't come off which was a shame, especially as Tira tried hard to find us. But we were up at the look out point working in the shade. It turned out we had a special show from the storks up there...ugly critters really and not the beloved elephants that we so want to see. Perhaps I am destined to return to see my ele friends some other time. Well, the storks were entertaining in their way.

The Maasai dancers

a lovely evening

Full moon in the Boma

Tonight was special, as like most Saturday nights here the evening meal was an outdoor affair in the boma (formerly spelled incorrectly...oops). The fire was lit and clay pots hung over white hot charcoals and a huge buffet was laid on for all the guests. Many Maasai were dressed in their normal Maasai garb, the full moon was out and the local Maasai dancers (all men of course) were putting on a show. This was some relief from the guy with the casio keyboard singing ' My Bonny lies over the ocean' to the completely wrong rhythm! Hilarious! Anyway it was a lovely end to a wonderful week and we feel ready now to face the rest of the trip. Gerry has heroically spent most of the day trying to fix up our transport back to Nairobi. We are attempting to cadge a lift in taxi's returning to the city with guests so as not to have to pay...all very cheeky. The staff are helping us, and we may have to travel separately. Bit scary! Especially as I now have no money! An English fiver may not do the trick.

Photos again

About to cross the great rift valley

First night in tent at Leleshwa

Camping in style

Happy with their new bags...Mpopongi girls

CUTE!

Girls at Sekenani with BAGS!

Olesoit at the Sarova Mara Game Camp...
we gave him a doll for each of his children

and some more...because I can!

Me, Sonal and Gerry... don't judge it's early!

Cute or what..a springbok I think!

Bit arty!

Remember we didn't pay!

The intrepid 9 and Chelle our captain...it's in the air I promise.
Photo taken from suspended camera. Just the sort of thing that Tim would rig up!

More photos for you

What an incredible sight. The cheetah was very alert as a male lion was not far off...
he would polish off a cheetah cub in no time and just for kicks!

Wildebeest possibly gathered for the tail end of the great migration south

Simba - not quite as cuddly as he looks!

Photos at last

I now have wifi - Caroline at the front desk has given me her own password...ssshhhh!

From the balloon... just staggeringly beautiful

So here goes...I will try to add captions too so you can connect them to all the text that has gone before...

Not sure this needs a caption

This is Rinka, Mike's navigator. This is a very typical scene, not just for the tourist.

More to follow!

DAY 6

Well today has been long and exhausting. I’m still struggling with my tummy issues. I’m not feeling ill just need to be near a toilet…if you know what I mean!

We were up early and on the road at 8am. The plan was to go to see a girls secondary school in Narok (the capital ‘city’ of the Mara). Although Narok is only about 85km away it takes at least 2 hours over an extremely bumpy road. Today was hot too so it was altogether unpleasant. Still, it was worth it, as the head teacher of St Mary’s Girls boarding school, Margaret, was extremely helpful. We took Agnes with us and we asked lots of questions about secondary curriculum, timetable and building requirements, plus funding from the government. We have decided that a public rather than private school is the way forward and this seems to be meeting with approval from everyone in the community.

After that visit we waited for ages for our taxi driver to return…Africa time! We later saw the guy who is the quality assurance and standards inspector for the Mara district education department. He too loved the plans and advised us on registering the school with the government so that funding could start as soon as the school is built.

We returned to Sekenani school after more Africa time moments down that ridiculous road. It seemed even longer on the way home. I ended up with a brown face from the dust blowing in through the taxi window, but it was either that or suffocate in the heat. The road has lost any charm it may once have had!

At Sekenani we checked out the land set aside for the school…vast and quite flat so that’s good…and proceeded to the school. Many of the children came out to greet us. Only the boarders are there at the moment as the local kids have gone home for the end of the year. Gerry had some letters from children at home for the kids to reply to, which they did with great enthusiasm and skill. Purity, who I chatted to on Wednesday answered a letter from Emily Patel, a Thurnby Guide. We chatted about how I knew Emily and Purity wrote her a super letter. She then disappeared, reappearing a few minutes later with something in her hand. She pressed it into mine and whispered, ‘Give this to Emily’. It was a small Maasai necklace. I will give it to Emily on my return, but would actually like to bring Purity home with me! In the letters one girl commented on the doll she had received two days before! No trip to a school is complete without a visit to the longdrop (toilet)…and this one did not disappoint.

We finally got back to the ranch at 6pm. What a day. We were all really tired and enjoyed flopping in the bar with a beer…bliss! Another good day.

Tomorrow is our last day in the Mara, which is a bit sad although I kind of feel like I need to be heading home. It’s funny but in the less busy moments I have been feeling quite homesick. I talked to the family tonight so that was good. I can’t really get my head around how I feel about things I am seeing here. I know that pity is not helpful or required but you can’t help feeling horrid about the fact that you can just walk away from the existence of the children down at Sekenani and Mpopongi, and they cannot. I saw inside one of the dormitories at the school today. It was so basic, dirty and horrible. I was quite shocked and actually a little disgusted at the messy state of the whole school. Some of this seems to be down to mismanagement rather than poverty (another absent head teacher today). It is motivating us to make more of a difference, with the building of the new school, but frankly it’s just not enough. But then it is something, and something that could have an impact on the whole community and generations of Maasai children to come.

From Sunday we are heading to Nairobi and much more corporate style meetings…not really my thing but this trip has already challenged me in so many ways, I’m sure I will have something I can contribute.

God bless all, missing you!